Lamanai Outpost Lodge: Our Visit 2009

November 2009

We rented a car in BZE and drove about 1 hour to the north to Orange Walk and then turned on a dirt/ caliche road through the farming Mennonite area. We passed about 15-20 buggies and wondered where are they all going? The carts have no lights only reflectors and as it was getting dark it was a bit scary.  TIP: Decided it was best not drive to Lamanai Outpost Lodge. Take the airport transfer to the boat dock and approach across the lagoon. The ride is 45 minutes and then 1 – 1.5 hours by boat, The arrival this way takes you into the jungle and the arrival is dramatic.Take the boat transfer to Lamanai!

TIP: Rent a cell phone from your car rental company. Ours cost $25, and we stopped at a gas station and bought $25 USD of minutes.

The staff at Lamanai Outpost are very friendly and efficient. They learned our names and what we like. Barbara ordered a 'cup of Joe' and explained what that meant. Same meal, our waitress Mirna asked if I needed more Joe! Meals are very good and well presented, considering our situation. They change tablecloths at each meal, with colorful ones in the day and more formal at night. Same with casual stoneware at breakfast and lunch, white china at dinner. The whole dining room is set for dinner even if there are only a few guests. This allows you to choose any table in the room rather than narrowing it down to just a few. Food is good: dinners are curried shrimp on rice or pork loin with mashed potatoes. Only one choice per night but they can accommodate any dietary needs with a little notice. They have a nice little bar and good wine list.

Ruben, our guide, grew up in the local environs and has worked at Lamanai Outpost Lodge a long time. He led the Dawn Chorus Tour this morning with Roger and Teresa . We walked just minutes from the lodge and along a road to the old Spanish churches and towards Lamanai Mayan ruins. Just outside the lodge we came across 15 20 species of birds including a number we see in Texas which have probably just come south for the winter. Hooded, Blackburnian, Magnolia warblers, Kiskadees, a number of vireos. Residents include Chachalacas, oriloes, and any number of hummers.

Ruben really seemed to know the birds by call and saw any movement in the trees, on the roads, along fences. He was very good at showing although it was not easy to see many due to the dense foliage.

We came upon the Spanish churches and he explained how the Spanish came down from Mexico to try to convert the Mayan and use their labor in their endeavors. The church even used a staela from a Mayan temple, which they've left in place. Next we came upon the sugar mill, made with bricks and the big wheel is still in place but has been completely grown over by a fig tree. Very dramatic. In this area we saw red lored parrots, heard laughing falcon, orioles, etc.

We'd walked about 1 ¾ hours, slowly, easily, Ruben a very knowledgeable guide. We ended up at the entry to the Mayan ruin which has a museum and gift shop etc, and he radioed for a boat from the lodge. The ride was 2 minutes.

Next we walked with Mauricio on a medicinal plant trail. He explained about a number of natural remedies used in the area. He suggests seeing a doctor first to determine the illness but he and his family have been using natural cures with success.

Mauricio moved to this area from Guatemala at age 3 (he is now 31) and the family lived along the river. About 1990 the govt resettled the villagers so that the area could become a preserve. He said the relationship with the Mennonites was a good one, and that the villagers (Indian Church is the village, named after the church built by the Spanish). Locals work in the lodge, agriculture, or for the Mennonites. 60% of the meat and grain in this country are raised by the Mennonites and as they don't drive vehicles, locals take them or their crop to various places or work the farms with them. He said the Mennonites live in harmony with locals with no problems.

Mauricio showed plants that cure diarrhea, cramps, kidney ailments, and other problems.

Just outside the lodge grounds we visited a Mayan man with a butterfly nursery. It had been a thriving spot before Hurricane Keith but he has been rebuilding ever since. He has a small enclosed screen area with several morphos. Just beautiful - we saw 2 mating so hope there will be more soon. He showed us his pupae stages which was wild to see. See the photo that looks more like an earring display than wildlife. Butterflies are amazing creatures, going through so many different stages with a stunning result. One side of their wings is irrediscent ble and the other side shades of brown with an eye pattern.

Notes about the lodge: A take/leave library is available and small gift shop. Wireless throughtout and a laptop available in the restaurant. Cell phones work with no problem.

We took a great sunset sail along the lagoon, complete with chips and rum punches!  We headed up river and you can see the dense forest on the river bank but also can see the shapes of Mayan temples. It is beautiful to see but amazing to consider the history of the area. Ruben took us to an area where the Jabiru storks come each year to nest. They usually arrive in November but we have not seen any so far. Jabiru are about 4-5 feet tall, white with red neck ring, yellow bill. Big birds!  Along the way we flushed a manatee, saw lots of parrots coming to roost. As the sun dropped, Ruben put the scope on Jupiter and we could see 4 moons!  

Before bed I went down to the boat dock and sat for a few minutes. My eyes were amazed by the dark sky filled with stars, as bright as I have ever seen.

Overall impression - Lamanai Outpost a great spot. Lots of activities to see the local area, village with a guide and things to do on own. Delicious food, comfy bungalows, lovely jungle sounds, extremely friendly and knowledgable staff.