Kenya's Artisan Cheeses

Barbara's picture

Our first nights in Kenya were spent in a “mud & dung mansion” overlooking the vast plateau eastwards towards towering Mount Kenya. Our good fortune was the result of years of collaboration with a former colleague who has built his home in the Laikipia District countryside, outside of the small village of Naro Moru. Terry and his partner Jane, opened their home to us and introduced us to the magic of Kenya.

 

Ever interested in food, we were soon touring the mini-farm’s vegetable garden and livestock pens. We met the cows that the family’s milk comes from and learned that many farmers sell their excess milk. The result: creamy cheese. Our first taste came after dinner.

 

 

“We only buy Sue Brown’s cheese.” Brown’s Cheese has been made for 25 years from milk from their own herd and from other smallholding family farms in the region. No chemicals, coatings or coloring are used in processing the artisan cheeses. I recognized the Gouda, cheddar and feta, but was stumped when asked if I’d like to try the Stone. The Brown’s Stone, so named because it looks like an old rock, is a mouthwatering rich Blue cheese.

We missed trying the Kalloumi, awarded the championship at the 2006 East African Cheese Festival. Kalloumi is a ‘meaty’ textured cheese excellent for grilling as it does not melt. 

 

It wasn’t until I came home and found the Brown’s Cheese website , that I learned that we also missed the 2nd East African Cheese & Wine Festival. It had taken place on September 15, on the grounds of the well-known Carnivore Restaurant in Nairobi.

 

It would be fun to plan our next visit to coincide with the Festival……Until then, I’ll whip up this recipe and savor the memories

 

Stone and Asparagus Pasta

Serves 2

Ingredients

4 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
110g/4oz pasta, cooked
85g/3oz Brown’s Stone cheese, crumbled
4 tbsp double cream
4 tbsp asparagus, chopped
½ lemon, juice only

 

Method

1. Blanch the asparagus in some salted boiling water until they are just cooked and turn a vivid green. Remove quickly and plunge into cold water to prevent them cooking further. Chop a few spears for the sauce.

2. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a pan and sauté the onion for two minutes, to soften. Stir in the cooked pasta.
3. Add the cheese and cream to the pan and heat gently for 5-6 minutes. Thrown in the chopped asparagus. Add squeeze of lemon juice to taste.
3. Meanwhile, chargrill the asparagus spears in a griddle pan. Remember they are cooked you this will only take a few minutes.
4. To serve, spoon the pasta onto a serving plate and serve the chargrilled asparagus alongside